Launceston

Launceston is a historic market town in east Cornwall, sitting right on the Devon border where it served as Cornwall’s county town for centuries. A Norman castle with a round keep overlooks the town from the hilltop above, giving views across the Tamar Valley, Dartmoor and Bodmin Moor. The medieval street layout is still largely intact, with steep lanes leading down from the castle to the market square.

The town has a solid mix of independent shops, cafes and pubs, plus a regular farmers’ market. St Mary Magdalene Church is worth a look for its extraordinary carved granite exterior - almost every surface is covered in intricate decoration. The Launceston Steam Railway runs a heritage narrow-gauge line through the Kensey Valley, popular with families. Lawrence House Museum gives a good introduction to local history and is free to enter.

For visitors, Launceston works well as a base for exploring north and east Cornwall. Bodmin Moor is on the doorstep, the north coast beaches at Bude and Crackington Haven are about half an hour away, and the A30 gives quick access west towards the rest of Cornwall. It’s one of those towns that often gets driven through rather than stopped in, which is a shame - there’s more here than most people realise.

Self-catering accommodation in the surrounding countryside leans rural - converted barns and farm cottages on smallholdings - with options like Lazy Hare at Jen’s Orchard, a one-bedroom barn with an open fire near St Giles on the Heath, around 5 miles west of the town.